Drag your eyes from the heavens for a fresh look at Elqui
20 Feb 2012
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The Elqui Valley may be best known for its nights of endless stars and its stark mountain landscapes, but that is only half the picture.
The mouth of the Elqui does not open suddenly on soaring peaks and arid slopes, but rather rises gradually from the fecund fields just inland from the coastal city of La Serena. Here, between the narrowing sides of the valley, are rows of pisco vines, mountain reservoirs and attractive towns, a pastoral landscape a world away from the lunar heights of upper valley.
From the heart of La Serena, Chile's best-preserved colonial city, it is only a short drive to the mouth of the valley. Each morning, a low fog hangs over the coastal city, trapped by a small ridge that marks the first gradual ascent to the mountains. Above the dim embankment, farmland rolls out toward the first hills and mountains to the east. Here grow stands of papaya trees, the unique Chilean variety of ridged, yellow fruit for which La Serena is famous. Though highly sour and acidic on their own, these abundant fruits are often candied or sweetened for delicious jams and juices.
Route 41 runs flat past the local airport until the first hint of hills appears ahead, two low, green arms reaching into the fields that herald your entry into the Elqui Valley. In its first stretch, the valley is broad and enclosed by low hills. The main route runs up its center, flanked by vineyards that produce Chile's national drink, pisco. Branching off the main road are narrow local routes that run along the sides of the hills through picturesque farming villages. Keep an eye out for fresh goat's cheese, papaya products and small pisco vineyards. If you like camping, this portion of the valley has ample space to pitch a tent along clear mountain streams.
Continue inland an the mountains begin to rise, the narrow Elqui River cutting its course at the green base of flinty hills until it reaches the Puclaro Dam. Park here and walk along the top of the dam for stunning views of the man made lake extending inland, and the gorgeous course of the valley behind you. As you continue along the edges of the lake, look for the stumps of pisco vines drowned by the creation of the dam, the only hint of the settlements that once were here along the valley floor.
The town of Vicuña sits near the center of the valley. High mountains rise on either side, enclosing the pretty town in a tight, green basin. Relax on the peaceful town square, enjoy fresh foods at the town's humble restaurants, and visit the museum dedicated to Gabriela Mistral, Chile's first Nobel laureate.
Deeper into the valley you will reach the quaint town of Pisco Elqui and the nearby village of Montegrande, the birthplace of Mistral. From here, literature buffs can follow a heritage tour tracing the steps of Mistral's childhood from the home of her birth though the schools where she was educated, and where she taught in her early career.
Past Pisco Elqui the valley continues to rise, eventually reaching the myriad astronomical observatories for which the region has become famous. Spend a night here with your eyes set on the sky, then return through rustic valley. You might be surprised which experience sticks with you longer.
